Welcome to World Floor Expo!


  • A Guide to Carpet Types and Styles

    The first question you should consider when looking for a type of carpet is where it's going to go. Is it in a room where a lot of people (or animals) are going to be walking across it all day? Is it in a place where it is likely to be stained by dirt or other materials? Do you want a carpet that feels extremely casual? Do you want to have a pattern or texture, or would you like a uniform visual effect? These are all questions you should keep in mind when examining the types of carpet.

    Most carpets can be divided into three extremely basic categories: [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=23]Loop (berber) carpets[/url], [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=22]Cut Pile carpets[/url], or a combination of the two, [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=24]Cut and Loop (precision cut/uncut) carpets[/url]. Each category has its own distinct attributes, and a variety of types that fall under the category.

      [*]Berber: [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=63]Level Loop berber[/url], [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=64]Multi-Level Loop (textured) berbers[/url], [url=compare.php?n=FSTY&v=Patternedf=3&t=23]Patterned Loop carpets[/url]
      [*]Cut Pile: [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=22]Saxony carpet[/url], [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=65]Textured Saxonies[/url], [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=66]Velvet (plush) carpets[/url], [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=67]Twisted (frieze) carpets[/url], [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=68]Shag carpeting[/url]
      [*]Precision Cut/Uncut: Patterned cut/uncut, Sculptured/Textured cut/uncut


    While all berbers are made with the same looped construction, there is a world of difference between different methods of creating them. For a long time, dense and heavy level loop berber carpets have been used in the business world and other areas with extremely heavy or rough traffic. They are also excellent for use within the home in areas where traffic is particularly high. And textured or multi-level berbers have become very popular choices, thanks to their distinctive patterns and strong visual effect that fits in both a traditional and a contemporary design.

    Selecting a Berber

    However, special care must be taken when selecting a berber carpet. First, berber carpets are only as strong as their loops. While thick, dense and tightly spaced berbers can be excellent at resisting wear, low-density berbers can actually wear faster than other types of carpet. Low-end textured berbers with both high and low loops can sometimes make vacuuming difficult, since dirt can easily get trapped in the lower loops and they can be prone to snagging, causing the carpet to wear faster than normal. And if you have pets, berber may be a very bad choice, since their claws will be likely to snag on the loops and can destroy the carpet. Finally, be mindful of the material used. [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=Olefin&f=3&t=23]Olefin (polypropylene)[/url] is one of the least expensive materials for a carpet, but it is one of the least durable materials, and is highly susceptible to wear very quickly. The best material for berber carpeting is [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=Wool]Wool[/url], which was also the material used in the very first berbers. Other recommended materials include [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=Nylon&f=3&t=23]Nylon[/url], particularly the durable next-generation soft nylons like [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=Tactesse&f=3&t=23]Tactesse[/url], [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=DuraSoft&f=3&t=23]DuraSoft[/url] and [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=Caress&f=3&t=23]Caress[/url]. Additionally, [url=displaymanu.php?m=28&f=3]Mohawk[/url]'s [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=SmartStrand&f=3&t=23]SmartStrand fiber[/url] is a [url=http://www.mohawk-flooring.com/carpet/smart-strand.asp]new type of material[/url] that is extremely durable and excellent for use in all carpets, including berber.

    Cut Pile

    Cut pile (saxony) carpets are the most popular type of carpet, and usually what people imagine when they think of carpet. Soft, simple and elegant, saxonies are never out of style. Of course, not all cut pile carpet is built the same way or has the same appearance in your home. The one thing they have in common is that all cut piles are made from yarn attached directly to the backing. What separates them is the way the yarn is designed.

    Plush / Velvet

    Velvet (plush) carpets have yarns that are lightly twisted so they appear to stand straight up and spread out, giving the carpet an soft, smooth and uniform appearance. They tend to show footprints and vacuum trails more than saxony or frieze carpeting, but the appearance is far more elegant than traditional saxonies. Because of this, velvet carpet is typically more expensive than other cut piles. Additionally, cut pile carpets with lightly twisted yarn is more easily [url=http://www.carpet-rug.org/drill_down_2.cfm?page=2&sub=6]crushed[/url] (imagine a fraying rope), so it should only be used in areas of the home where traffic is typically very light.


    Regular saxonies and textured saxony carpets are twisted a bit more than plush carpeting so that individual tufts are visible, but the floor still has a relatively uniform appearance thanks to slightly open ends at the top. Saxonies are the most popular choices for most homeowners, and are what most people think of when they hear the word carpet. They tend to be very good at preventing wear, are relatively easy to clean and maintain, and can hide footprints and vacuum trails better than plush carpets.

    Textured saxonies are like regular saxonies, but each tuft of yarn varies in height, so that the carpet has a slightly less uniform appearance. While a textured saxony may not look as uniform or luxurious as a plush or regular saxony, it is much better at hiding footprints and vacuum trails. Thus, textured saxonies are recommended more than velvets or saxonies in areas that may experience more wear than others, like living rooms, hallways or stairs.

    Frieze / Twist

    Frieze carpet is made from tufts of yarn that are completely twisted, so that they have an appearance like rope or twine, only much softer. Because the yarn is so tightly wound with ends that are nearly closed and the individual tufts are completely separate from each other, they don't usually show much trace of footprints or vacuum marks at all. Wear is also much less likely to affect a frieze, since the tufts of yarn don't crush, flatten out or experience much fraying. However, this also means that the individual tufts are far more visible than with any other type of saxony, so if you are looking for a carpet with a smooth or very formal appearance, you should go with a saxony. Frieze carpet is best suited for a room with a relaxed atmosphere, and is perfect for anyplace in the home that experiences a lot of traffic. A cousin of the frieze family is Shag. Shag carpet is very similar to friezes, but has wider and longer tufts of yarn, giving a more casual and extremely textured appearance. One note about both friezes and shags is that they can be [url=http://www.aplusvacuum.com/2006/08/how-to-vacuum-frieze-and-shag-carpets.html]susceptible to damage from certain vacuum cleaners[/url], as the individual strands in low-quality twist carpeting can be swept up by the brush roller.

    Cut-Uncut / Sculptured

    Precision Cut/Uncut carpeting, also known as [url=displaytype.php?f=3&t=24]Sculptured carpet[/url], uses varying cut pile and berber construction to create a texture or pattern. This method allows for a nearly infinite variety of patterns, since the way that the differing saxony and loop styles and heights contrast with each other gives carpet designers a way to create detailed textures that would not be possible with cut pile or loop carpets by themselves. Additionally, these carpets tend to be relatively low-priced, are fairly durable, and hide dirt and soil better than multi-level berbers. This makes them ideal for large families looking for a long-lasting carpet that will hold up to wear and staining.

  • The Best Carpet Links on the Internet


      [url=http://muextension.missouri.edu/explore/regpubs/ncr463.htm]A Buyer's Guide to Carpet[/url]

      A full guide to a number of buying decisions for carpet products designed for the average customer from the [url=http://extension.missouri.edu]University of Missouri-Columbia's Extension Program[/url].


      [url=http://www.carpetguru.com/]CarpetGuru's Carpet College[/url]

      One of the first and most complete carpet buying guides on the internet, this site is designed to teach non-professionals the inside information on carpet. Created by a longtime flooring professional in Oregon, it is clear, informative and to the point. Definitely worth a read.


      [url=http://dataspec.ultron.com/dataspec/pages/workbook11001.asp]Carpet DataSpec Education Program[/url]

      This site, designed for carpet professionals, is designed to teach exactly what specifically to ask for in a quality carpet. If you're serious about finding the best choice, take a look at this fantastic guide. Like a Kelley's Blue Book for carpeting!


      [url=http://www.cleanprosonline.com]CleanPros Online[/url]

      This site is developed by professional carpet cleaners, and is a great place to learn about carpet stain protection and stain removal! Some highlights are their guide to [url=http://www.cleanprosonline.com/Toughest_stains.html]the toughest stains for each fiber type[/url] and [url=http://www.cleanprosonline.com/Olefin_challenge.html]the issues involved with olefin berbers[/url].


      [url=http://www.carpetbuyershandbook.com/]The Carpet Buyer's Handbook[/url]

      This site comes from [url=http://www.northga.net/whitfield/indust.html]Dalton, Georgia, the Carpet Capital of the World[/url], and is a great place for learning about all kinds of flooring and the many great carpet stores located there. Although you know we'll give you the best deal, of course!


      [url=http://www.carpetdyeing.com/berber.html]Berber? Don't Buy Berber!!!![/url]

      This page (only about [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=Olefin&t=23]olefin or polypropylene berbers[/url]) comes from [url=http://www.carpetdyeing.com]Color Your Carpet carpet dyeing and restoration[/url] services. It lists many of the problems they and others have encountered with the olefin carpet material. It's a bit overdramatic, but good information to consider before deciding to buy a olefin/polypropylene berber carpet. Personally, we agree that [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=Wool]Wool[/url] and [url=compare.php?n=FIBR&v=Nylon]Nylon[/url] are superior materials, not just for berbers but any type of carpet. But it is possible to find olefin berbers that will work if they have dense, level loops, and they are often much less expensive. Additionally, olefin is the absolute best carpet material for areas that will see a lot of moisture, and the only one usually recommended for outdoors (though they don't mention that part). You may agree or disagree, but decide for yourself.

  • A Guide To Vinyl Flooring Warranties

    [inset]These are extremely general guidelines. Not all these warranties will apply to every product. Warranty terms vary from product to product, and you should always check to find your product's specific warranty information.[/inset]

    Rip / Tear / Gouge

    Guarantees that the vinyl won't be ripped apart, torn open, or have holes gouged into it through normal household use. This does not cover any damage arising from the installation, intentional damage done or other rough treatment, like kids or pets damaging the floor, dragging furniture or other heavy objects across it without the proper safety precautions, vacuum or beater bar damage, fire damage and any other damage not caused by normal, everyday traffic.


    Guarantees that the vinyl won't experience permanent indentations from normal household usage. This typically covers foot traffic and furniture that has been covered with appropriate flooring protectors. Does not usually cover damage done from installation, rough treatment or intentional abuse.

    Discoloration / Moisture Damage

    Most manufacturers warrant against discoloration or staining that comes from mold and mildew damage or underlayment panels. This covers most normal damage from everyday usage, though damage from flooding, water leaks and other causes of extreme water damage is not covered. Additionally, this warranty almost always only covers one replacement. If the replacement floor is damaged, they won't replace it again. Some manufacturers also warrant against discoloration and fading from sunlight or heat, but others do not. Be sure to check whether fading from light or heat is covered by your product's warranty.

    Stains / Scuffs

    This warranty says that the product will not experience permanent discoloration from one or more of the following: common household stains, outdoor stains like asphalt, permanent scuff marks from shoes, yellowing from mats backed with latex or rubber. Specific product warranties may vary, so check which ones your product covers. Generally, this warranty will not include floors that have not been cared for as instructed by the manufacturer or damage from strong dyes, chemicals or fertilizer. Other exceptions may apply.


    Guarantees that the floor will not wear through from normal foot traffic. The amount of traffic warranted by the manufacturer will vary, check for your product's wear rating.

    Manufacturing Defects

    Warrants against any flaws found in the product before installation. Does not usually cover small variations in color or pattern, and does not cover floors that have been installed. Make sure a qualified professional checks your floor for any and all defects before installation begins.

  • Why Laminate Warranties May Not Be As Important As You Think

    Laminate warranties are not as important as other factors. Because laminate is a strong material by design and nearly all products are held to strict standards, most all laminates will have a long life. That said, beware any laminates with a warranty less than 10 years. Most laminates that meet the bare minimum requirements for flooring will be strong enough to last 10 years, and a floor that doesn't promise at least that much may have problems or defects.

    At the same time, however, a laminate may be warranted for a long time, but with certain loopholes in the warranty that limit their liability. In general, expect the following guidelines in a warranty:


    Guarantees that the color of the floor will not change from exposure to sunlight or normal household electric lighting.


    Guarantees that the floor will not permanently stain from typical household usage. This **
    warranty will not cover moisture damage, and in order to qualify, you must follow the care instructions provided by the manufacturer.

    Manufacturing Defects

    Guarantees that the floor will not contain any defects before installation. This warranty will not cover flooring already installed or damage incurred through shipping, so be sure to inspect all flooring and packaging thoroughly before installing it. This warranty may be shorter than the length of other warranties, be sure to check with the manufacturer regarding your specific product.

    Moisture Damage

    Guarantees that the flooring will not experience warping or discoloration from moisture damage from proper mopping and everyday spills. This warranty will not include damage arising from excess exposure to water, like flooding, leaks, pet urine, etc. It also does not cover moisture damage coming from beneath the floor, so be sure to use underlayment that meets all the manufacturer's specifications (often found in the warranty) to protect your floor from moisture damage arising from the subfloor.


    This warranty specifies that your floor's laminated surface will not wear through. This will not cover damage caused by reduction of gloss, household accidents, vacuuming without using a wand or brush attachment, or any other improper usage.

    Joint Damage

    Guarantees that the floor will not come apart or create gaps between the pieces. This will not cover planks that have been repeatedly removed from the joint during or after installation of the floor.

  • Anderson Hardwood FAQ

  • How do I care for my floor?
      [*]Once your floor is installed you want to protect your investment by properly maintaining the floor. Information on how to protect, clean, and maintain the floor can be found in the warranty brochure, the installation guidelines, and on our website.
  • How do I register my floor?
      [*]There are several ways to register your floor after purchase. The warranty and maintenance brochure contains a warranty registration card – simply fill the information out and drop it in the mail. The second option is to simply register your floor on-line at [url]www.andersonfloors.com[/url] or [url]www.appalachianfloors.com[/url]. Remember to keep a copy of your receipt to show proof of purchase in the event there is a problem with your floor.
  • Can I repair my damaged floor?
      [*]Typically yes. For minor scratches or dents the use of a touch up kit can repair damaged boards. In the event that a touch-up kit can not do a satisfactory repair replacing individual boards can be performed.
  • Can I install a hardwood floor in a full bathroom?
      [*]Installing a wood floor in a full bathroom is not recommended due the high moisture associated with these areas which can increase the potential for problems to develop.
  • Can I install an engineered floor over a concrete subfloor?
      [*]The benefit of an engineered floor is that in most cases it can be installed directly over a concrete substrate that is clean, flat, dry and structurally sound. See the installation guidelines for more detailed installation guidelines.
  • What is the recommended trowel to use with the A.F.B. Duck-Glue?
      [*]The recommended trowel is determined by the width of the product. For products 4 ½” in width or less use a 3/16”x3/16”x3/16” square notch trowel. For products wider than 4 ½” use a ¼” x ¼”x ¼” square notch trowel.
  • Is the warranty on my floor transferable?
      [*]No - The warranty applies only to the original purchaser of the floor. As the purchaser you must register the floor and keep a receipt (proof of purchase) in the event there is a problem with the floor.
  • How do I care for my recently purchased floor?
      [*]By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your floor. Please refer to the Installation and Care section on the website.
  • How will dogs affect my floor?
      [*]Taking precautions can help to prevent or minimize damage from a pet’s nails. Keep their nails clipped.
  • Columbia Hardwood Solid Care and Maintenance Information

    Maintenance Information for Hardwood Flooring

    A Little Care Goes a Long Way Toward Protecting Your Investment

    Wood is a natural material and can be scratched or dented. To help guard against scratches and dents, place protective felt pads under furniture legs and chairs, and make sure any furniture casters are clean, operate freely and have a minimum 1" wide vinyl surface where it comes in contact with the wood floor.

    The hardwood warranties do not cover damage caused by spiked heels or shoes that need repair, heavy furniture, and appliances. A stiletto or any heel with a diameter of approximately 3/8" can concentrate as much as 2,000 pounds per square inch on the floor.

    Follow Columbia's recommended guidelines when caring for your new floor. Use only floor care products recommended by Columbia. Your warranties do not cover damage caused by cleaning products we do not recommend. Do not use oil soaps, liquid or paste wax products or other household cleaners that contain lemon or tung oils. These products can dull the finish and make future cleaning and refurbishment difficult.

    Remove spills promptly. Use a soft cotton cloth and Columbia Cleaner on wet spills. For dry spills, sweep or vacuum.

      [*]Never damp mop a wood floor.
      [*]Don't let dirt or sand build up.
      [*]Sweep or vacuum your floor regularly.
      [*]Do not use a vacuum with a beater bar.

    Wood will age and change color due to ultra-violet light. Rearrange rugs and furniture periodically so the floor will age evenly. Cherry and Out Of Africa Collection flooring are more susceptible to change during the aging process.

    Use entry mats to trap dirt, sand and oils before entering to prevent tracking into your home. Oils from asphalt driveways and streets can permanently stain a floor.

    Please note that light colored maple and cherry hardwood floors require extra care. Light colors will show dirt and require more frequent care than dark colors. Maple and cherry are inherently smooth woods and will show scratches and dents more readily than oak.

    Keep your pet's nails trimmed, as they are capable of scratching wood and some laminate floors.

    When moving heavy appliances or furniture, put down a quarter-inch sheet of plywood to protect the floor, and use a dolly or air bag. Never try to slide or roll heavy objects across your floor without taking these precautions.

    Keep unused planks after installation. In case of accident or damage, you can use them for repair.

  • About the Philosophy of Columbia Flooring

    The Columbia Flooring Family Craftsmanship is a matter of family pride to us. We bring over 40 years of expertise in hardwood veneers to every floor we make, with the singular goal of bringing out the exceptional beauty and natural warmth of every piece of wood. And our pride in our work translates into your own pride in your floors. Columbia hardwood flooring offers you the warmth and rich texture of natural wood, plus easy installation, hassle-free maintenance, and the industry's most durable finish. So from our family to yours, welcome to the woods of Columbia Flooring.

  • Medallion Hardwood Solid Warranty Information


    Factory finished solid hardwood floors sold by Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring, Ltd. ("Medallion™") are warranted to the original residential consumer thereof, to be free from defects in material and workmanship, subject to the terms, conditions, limitations and exclusions herein contained. The original residential consumer is the homeowner when and where such hardwood floor is first installed (and not the distributor, dealer, installer or contractor).


    Medallion™ warrants to the original residential consumer that its factory finished solid hardwood floors designated below will be free from manufacturing and workmanship defects in milling and grading (within the industry standard tolerance of 5%) existing at the time of initial delivery and installation, for the lesser of the Applicable Duration (as set forth below) following the date of purchase of such hardwood floor by the original residential consumer or for as long as the original residential consumer owns such hardwood floor, subject to the proration schedule provided in the Remedies section hereof:
    [table=table][mrow class=labels]Grade of Flooring[col class=labels]Applicable Duration
    [row]Medallist™ Collection[col]Twenty (20) Years
    [row]Builder Grade[col]Fifteen (15) Years

    Please note that there is no structural warranty against defects in milling or grading on flooring designated as "Promotional Grade." Such products designated as "Promotional Grade" may have imperfections, including, but not limited to, wormholes, face splits, height differences between boards and knots.


    Medallion™ warrants to the original residential consumer that ordinary and normal residential use of its PermaWear® finish on its factory finished solid hardwood floors designated below will not cause Medallion's™ seven-step finish process to be worn through and the raw wood exposed for the lesser of the Applicable Duration (as set forth below) following the date of purchase of such hardwood floor by the original residential consumer or for as long as the original residential consumer owns such hardwood floor, subject to the proration schedule provided in the Remedies section hereof:
    [table=table][mrow class=labels]Grade of Flooring[col class=labels]Applicable Duration
    [row]Medallist™ Collection[col]Twenty (20) Years
    [row]Builder Grade[col]Fifteen (15) Years
    [row]Promotional Grade[col]Five (5) Years


    The original residential consumer must return the enclosed warranty card to the address printed thereon within one (1) year from the date of purchase in order to obtain warranty coverage and performance hereunder. FAILURE TO RETURN THE WARRANTY CARD WITHIN ONE (1) YEAR FROM THE DATE OF PURCHASE WILL VOID THE LIMITED WARRANTIES SET FORTH ABOVE. Upon Medallion's™ receipt of such registration card, Medallion™ will mail to you at the address listed on such card, a written confirmation of receipt. If you do not receive such written confirmation within one (1) month from the date that you mailed the registration card, you should contact Medallion™ by telephone at (800) 251-8751. Medallion™ will not be responsible for misdirected, lost or late mail. All claims must be made by the original residential consumer within the applicable warranty coverage period and be made in accordance with the Section below entitled "How to File a Claim." These limited warranties are not transferable. Installation of the hardwood floor must be performed in accordance with Medallion's™ published recommendations and instructions. The original residential consumer must have purchased the hardwood floor on or after June 1, 2001. Medallion™ reserves the right to have a designated Medallion™ representative inspect and remove samples of the hardwood floor for analysis. Inspections of the hardwood floors must be performed in accordance with industry standards from a standing position with normal lighting and no glare. These limited warranties do not apply to commercial uses, rental properties (whether or not residential), engineered products, or to any hardwood flooring which is designated as tavern, seconds, county, cabin, economy, non-standard or utility, and such products are sold "as-is".


    The limited warranties contained herein do not cover damage to the hardwood floor or to the PermaWear® finish caused by or arising out of:
    [list=a][*]improper storage, handling or installation of the hardwood floor;
    [*]man-made or natural disasters including, without limitation, leaking or broken plumbing, fire, flood, tornado, hurricane or earthquake;
    [*]abrasives, including, without limitation, dirt, sand and rocks;
    [*]insect infestation after shipment from the factory;
    [*]spiked shoes or damaged shoe heels;
    [*]dents or scratches in the hardwood floor caused by furniture, appliances, traffic or any cause other than mis-manufacturing of the hardwood floor;
    [*]reduction in gloss, fading or change in shading, whether due to sunlight or any other causes;
    [*]moisture or water;
    [*]wet mopping;
    [*]any modification to the hardwood floor after manufacture, including, without limitation, applying finish, resanding, refinishing or recoating of the hardwood floor;
    [*]abuse of the hardwood floor;
    [*]cold, heat, humidity or dryness; and/or
    [*]failure to follow Medallion's™ care and maintenance guide regarding care of the hardwood floor, including, without limitation, using cleaners which are not formulated for use on hardwood floors with urethane finishes.

    The following are not considered defects under these limited warranties:
    [list=a][*]squeaking and crackling of the hardwood floor;
    [*]normal color variations and natural characteristics of wood;
    [*]failure of the hardwood floor to match in color, shade, gloss, finish or grade of other wood products, including, without limitation, cabinets, molding, railings or trim; and
    [*]expansion and contraction caused by seasonal changes in climate.



    PRODUCTS Medallion™ will, at its sole option, repair, refinish or replace any portions of its factory finished solid hardwood flooring which have failed with respect to the limited warranties contained hereinabove, in accordance with the following provisions, and subject to all of the other terms, conditions, limitations and exclusions contained herein. Repair, refinish or replacement products, including flooring, parts, stain and finish, will be covered for the unexpired portion of the warranty coverage, as follows:
    [list=a][*]during the first five (5) years of warranty coverage, the costs of any of such covered products will be without charge to the original residential consumer;

  • during years six (6) through ten (10) of warranty coverage, the original residential consumer will be responsible for:[list=i][*]twenty-five percent (25%) of the costs of any of such covered products with respect to products in the Medallist™ Collection; or
    [*]thirty-three percent (33%) of the costs of any of such covered products with respect to products designated as Builder Grade;
  • during years eleven (11) through fifteen (15) of warranty coverage, the original residential consumer will be responsible for:[list=i][*]fifty percent (50%) of the costs of any of such covered products with respect to products in the Medallist™ Collection; or
    [*]sixty-six percent (66%) of the costs of any of such covered products with respect to products designated as Builder Grade; and
  • [*]during years sixteen (16) through twenty (20) of warranty coverage, the original residential consumer will be responsible for seventy-five percent (75%) of the costs of any of such covered products with respect to products in the Medallist™ Collection.

    Charges to the original residential consumer shall be based on the then prevailing retail price of the repair, refinish or replacement products, including flooring, parts, stain and finish, at the time of the repair, refinish or replacement. Repair, refinish or replacement products shall be of equal or greater value, but Medallion™ will not be responsible for variations in color, shade, finish, gloss or grade between the repaired, refinished or replaced portions and the existing hardwood flooring or any other wood products, including, without limitation, cabinets, molding, railings or trim.


    If a covered claim is made by the original residential consumer during the first five (5) years of one of the limited warranties hereunder, Medallion™ will be responsible for labor and shipping costs, unless the flooring was visually defective at the time of installation, in which case these costs will be the original residential consumer's responsibility. After the first five (5) years of warranty coverage, all labor and shipping costs will be the original residential consumer's responsibility.

    In the event that Medallion™ repairs, refinishes or replaces any of its solid hardwood flooring under any of these limited warranties, the warranty applicable to the repaired, refinished or replaced product will only extend for the amount of time remaining on the original warranty with respect to the product being repaired, refinished or replaced.



    To file a claim under these limited warranties, first contact your Medallion™ dealer where the original purchase was made. If the dealer is not able to satisfy the claim, contact by letter: Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring, Ltd., Post Office Drawer 480369, Linden, Alabama 36748, Attn: Limited Warranty Claims Department. Include with that letter the information detailing the nature of the claim, documentation verifying proof and date of purchase and a statement certifying that you own the hardwood floor at the time of the claim.

  • Medallion Hardwood Installation Instructions for Solid Flooring

    Attention Installer/Owner

    Like all hardwood flooring, Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring is a natural product. Medallion™ floors are manufactured according to industry standards that permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5% of the square footage. These defects may be of a natural or manufacturing origin.

    Please read and follow these instructions for installing Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring. It is the installer's responsibility to inspect the flooring before installation. If there are any pieces which do not meet the appropriate grade or quality standards, do not install them. Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring will not be responsible for any replacement labor charges created by the installation of defective goods.

    Always order 5% additional flooring in order to account for cutting waste. Order 8-9% additional for installations on a 45° angle. Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring's solid factory flooring products are recommended for on or above grade level installations only.


    Inspect the Job Site.

    The condition of the job site is a critical part of a successful hardwood flooring installation. Hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed in a home.

    All work involving water or moisture should be completed prior to wood flooring being installed. Be sure the flooring will not be exposed to excessive periods of high humidity or moisture. Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated. All concrete, masonry, sheetrock and framing members, etc. should be thoroughly dry before flooring is delivered to the job site. The building should be closed in with outside windows and doors in place. In winter construction, the building should be heated (60°-72°F) for a period of time that will alw the building to reach its near normal moisture state before the hardwood flooring is installed (at least one week). In summer construction, if the building will have an air-conditioning system, it should be operated prior to installing the floor. If not, the home should be well ventilated. In addition, the surface grade or slope should direct water away from the building.

    Deliver the flooring.

    When job site conditions are satisfactory, have the flooring delivered and broken up into small lots and stored in the rooms where it will be installed. The acclimation time required will totally depend on the job site conditions. You should allow for a minimum of one week. If flooring is packaged, open or remove packaging for acclimation. Our flooring is manufactured at a moisture content of 6-9%. If the job site conditions or the geographic area is not compatible to this moisture content it is the responsibility of those who handle or install our flooring to anticipate moisture related problems before installation. From the time flooring is delivered and until occupancy, temperature and humidity should be maintained at or near occupancy levels. After occupancy, continue to control the environment. Extended times (more than 1 month) without HVAC controls can promote elevated moisture conditions, which can adversely affect flooring.

    Prepare the subfloor.

    Recommended subfloor types are: Plywood (1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" exterior grade), 3/4" Oriented Strand Board (must be marked as underlayment grade OSB), concrete slab, existing wood floors (must install new floor at 90 degrees to existing floor) and existing sheet vinyl or vinyl tile which is installed with additional subfloor over the above subfloors.

    General subfloor preparation

    The subfloor must be clean, dry, sound and flat. Therefore, be sure to sweep the subfloor and remove all debris. It must also be free of paint, wax, grease and other contaminants. The moisture content variation between the subfloor and of the flooring should be less than 4% with 2 1/4" and 3% with 3 1/4" products. Never install with the subfloor's moisture content above 14%. Knowing the moisture content of the subfloor and flooring prior to installation is essential to the performance of the floor. Use a wood moisture meter to test wood subfloors. To assure a structurally sound subfloor, nail or screw down any squeaky areas. The subfloor must be flat to within 1/8" over every 6 feet. Use a straight edge to test this. To correct areas that are not flat, sand down high spots and fill low spots using a cement-type filler.

    Concrete slab subfloor

    Before installation, test the concrete subfloor for moisture content using one of several methods. One method is to tape down 2' x 2' polyethylene squares around all four sides, in several places on the floor. After 24-48 hours, if condensation accumulates on the bottom of the plastic, install a moisture barrier system on top of the concrete. Keep in mind that a dry slab at the time of testing does not guarantee dryness in the future. All slabs should have a 6 mil polyethylene moisture barrier between the ground and the slab.

    When installing flooring over concrete, it is necessary to create a wood subfloor first. One way this is accomplished is by building a screed system. This system uses as a nailing base flat, dry 2"x 4" screeds of Group 1 density wood (sometimes called sleepers) of random lengths from 18" to 48". They must be preservative treated with a product suitable for interior installation. After treatment, screeds must be dried to a moisture content of 12% or less if saturation with water is involved.

    Sweep the slab clean, prime with an asphalt primer and allow it to dry. Apply hot (poured) or cold (cutback) asphalt mastic and imbed the screeds. Screeds are laid on their wide face in rivers of mastic with screed runs 12" on center. Lay screeds at right angles to the direction of the finished floor. Stagger joints and lap ends at least 4" and leave 1/2" space between lapped edges. Be sure there is enough mastic for 100% contact between screeds and slab. Leave 3/4" space between ends of screeds and walls with a continuous run of screeds at end walls.

    Over the screeds, lay a 4-to-6 mil polyethylene vapor retarder with edges lapped over rows of screeds. Avoid bunching or puncturing it, especially between screeds. The hardwood flooring will be nailed to the screeds through the film. The system with screeds spaced 12" on center and a moisture retarder without a subfloor is satisfactory for all 3/4" strip flooring and plank flooring less than 4" wide. If a subfloor is used over screeds it must be 5/8" or thicker plywood or 3/4" OSB (underlayment grade).

    Pier and Beam construction

    For pier and beam foundations, year-round outside cross ventilation through vents or other openings in the foundation walls must be provided with no dead air areas. Install 6 mil polyethylene over the ground, overlapped by 6" with the seams taped, in the crawl space.

    Plywood, OSB and wood subfloors

    (Do not install over particle board). Subfloors should be constructed of 1/2" or thicker plywood or 3/4" underlayment grade OSB when installing directly over 16" on center joists. Plywood sheets should be laid with grained outer plies at right angles to joists. Adjacent rows should be staggered four feet and nailed every 6" along each joist using 7D or larger nails. When installing directly over an old wood or strip floor, sand any high spots, renail the old floor to eliminate squeaks or loose boards, and install new planks at right angles to old floors.

    Should you prefer to install new planks in the same direction as the old floor, overlay the old floor with 1/2" plywood gapped by 1/8" at edges. Nail it with 7D or larger nails every 6" at the edges and every 12" through the interior of each sheet of plywood. The moisture content of the wood, plywood or OSB subfloor should not exceed 14% and should not be more than 4% different from the new wood floor's moisture content.


    Remove thresholds to allow the new flooring to run flush through doorways. Also remove doors and baseboards. Remove any existing base, shoe mold, or doorway thresholds. These items can be replaced after installation. All door casings should be notched out or undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts and provide a better looking finished installation. Cover the subfloor with a good grade of 15lb. asphalt/building paper, lapped 2-4" along the seams. This helps keep out dust, retards moisture movement from below and helps prevent squeaks during dry seasons.

    Step 1: Find Your Starting Point.

    Before beginning actual installation, lay out several rows of flooring end to end in a staggered pattern with end joints at least 6" apart from the end joints of the adjoining row. Watch your pattern for even distribution of long and short pieces. Work out of several different cartons of flooring to make sure color and shade of wood is of a good mix. Flooring should be laid at right angles to floor joists.

    To ensure that you begin with a straight line, place a mark 3/4" plus the width of the flooring plus 1/4" for the width of the tongue (3 1/4" for 2 1/4" flooring) on the end wall near a corner of a starting wall. Place a mark on the opposite corner wall and insert nails into each mark. Snap a chalk line between these nails to help align the planks (see figure 1). IMPORTANT: Leave at least 3/4" for expansion at all vertical surfaces. This space will be covered by baseboard and shoe mold.

    Step 2: Begin Laying Your Floor.

    Lay the first strip along the starting chalk line with tongue out. Place it with the side groove and cut end to the walls, allowing 3/4" for expansion space. Use the longest, straightest boards for this first row.

    Whenever nailing by hand, predrill holes into your flooring to prevent splitting. Drive 7D or 8D cut steel or screw type flooring nails into the face of the board every 12". Nail approximately 1/2"-3/4" from the edge closest to the starting wall and to 2"-3" from the ends. Keep the starter strip aligned with the chalk line.

    Edge nail the plank after predrilling by driving the same type nails at a 45-degree angle through the tongue of the plank, spacing the nails every 8"-10" and to 2"-3" from the ends. Repeat this process for the entire first row. After the first row is completed, go back and sink the face nails with a nail punch. For the holes that will not be covered with baseboard molding, fill the holes with filler that blends with your prestained floor.

    Repeat the edge nailing for the second row. NOTE: Do not face nail as in the first row. The first few rows must be edge nailed by hand rather than with a nailing machine due to the close proximity of the wall. After the first few rows are completed, an edge nailing machine, which drives 2" fasteners with an appropriate mallet, can be used to speed up the nailing process. Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring recommends Primatech® Model 100 or 100A, Powernail® Model #45 or Stanley-Bostich® Pneumatic Stapler Model #MIIIFS. A white color mallet (rather than black) will minimize cleanup after installation.

    Install each succeeding row of flooring by edge nailing the tongue side every 6"-10" to within 2"-3" of board ends. NOTE: Even short flooring strips need three or more nails to eliminate soft spots. Stagger end joints on adjacent rows by a minimum of 6" (figure 2), thus ensuring the best possible look. In addition, avoid "H-joints" (figure 3). This is when end joints, which are two rows apart, line up.

    Upon reaching the last row to be installed, the planks should be ripped to allow 3/4" expansion space. The last several rows must be fastened using face nails.

    Step 3: Finish The Job

    Install your base and/or quarter round molding. In order to allow the floor to expand as necessary, do not nail moldings into the floor but into the wall only.

    Install Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring reducers and moldings to provide a professional look and long-lasting beauty.

    Vacuum the floor thoroughly using the soft brush attachment.

    Use Medallion™ Hardwood Flooring's PermaWear® cleaner to bring out the full beauty of the hardwood floor.


    In-use moisture content

    Differences of more than 4% between the expected in-use average moisture content of flooring and the in-use average moisture content of underfloor construction are likely to cause problems, such as cupping or shrinkage. The greater the difference, the more severe the problems. For unfinished floors, finishing should proceed 1-3 weeks after installation is completed. Longer periods of exposure to job site conditions can result in future problems. Finishing immediately after installation does not allow the flooring adequate time to acclimate to its new environment.

    Insulation over heating plant

    For rooms directly over heating plant, use 30-lb. asphalt felt over heating plant, or install 1/2" insulating board between joists in both new and old buildings. Observe applicable fire codes.

    Work from left to right

    In laying strip flooring, you'll find it easier to work from your left to your right. Left is determined by having your back to the wall where the starting course is laid. When necessary to cut a strip to fit to the right wall, use a strip long enough so the cut-off piece is 8" or longer and start the next course on the left wall with this piece.

    Short pieces

    For the best appearance, always use long flooring strips at entrances and doorways. Incorporate the short pieces randomly in the floor. Avoid grouping them in one area.

    Put a "frame" around obstructions

    You can give a much more professional and finished look to a strip flooring installation if you "frame" hearths and other obstructions, using mitered joints at the corners.

    Reversing direction of strip flooring

    Sometimes it's necessary to reverse the direction of the flooring to extend it into a closet or hallway. To do this, join groove edge to groove edge, using a slip tongue available from flooring distributors. Glue slip tongue in place and blind nail that edge. Proceed in the opposite direction, nailing in the conventional manner.

    Don't pour concrete after flooring is installed

    Concrete basement floors are sometimes poured after hardwood flooring has been installed. However, many gallons of water from drying concrete are evaporated into the house atmosphere, where it may be absorbed by hardwood flooring and other wood components. This is not a recommended building practice since excessive moisture will cause problems with wood floors and other woodwork. Wood flooring should not be installed until after all concrete and plaster work are completed and dry.

    Please refer to your warranty for more information.

  • Medallion Hardwood Installation Instructions For Engineered Plank Flooring


      [*]Calculate the floor area and add 5% for cutting waste.
      [*]To insure full warranty coverage use Parabond¹s Millennium 2002 or Taylor 2071 adhesive.
      [*]For glue down installation, read adhesive label instructions as well as these instructions from start to finish.
      [*]Do not open the flooring packages until you are ready to begin installation.

    Installer/Owner Responsibility

    Hardwood floors are a product of nature with its natural variances and imperfections. This engineered hardwood flooring is manufactured in accordance with U.S. industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects might be of manufacturing or natural origin. All engineered hardwood flooring is covered by a residential Lifetime Warranty if products are installed using an approved adhesive for glue down floors, floor care products and maintaining proper humidity conditions within your home.
    [list=A][*]Before installation, the installer must determine that the job-site environment and the subsurfaces of the floor meet or exceed the installation requirements as described in these installation instructions. We decline any responsibility for job failure due to sub-standard job-site conditions.
    [*]The installer/owner has final inspection responsibility not to install defective flooring due to finish, manufacture or grade. Individual pieces with defects should not be installed or the defect should be cut off.

    General Information

    Engineered plank is a laminated wood product with precisely milled tongues and grooves. It is prefinished with acrylic polyurethane. Engineered planks are 3" or 6" wide and can be installed on concrete, existing wood floors, plywood, underlayment, particle or OSB board, resilient tile, existing sheet goods (with the exception of loose laid or perimeter adhesive sheet goods), terrazzo, or ceramic tiles as long as the subfloors are structurally sound, clean, level, and dry. It can be nailed or glued down.

    NOTE: Engineered ® plank flooring is not recommended for full bathroom installations. The moisture frequently associated with such locations may produce unsatisfactory results.
    To prevent damage, wood floors should be installed only after all other construction is completed.
    For glue down installations, temperatures of the subfloor, adhesive and flooring should be over 60 degrees F. (16 degrees C) during installation.

    Set Up. In order to have sufficient material on hand, calculate area and add 5% of material to allow cutting waste and for minor natural or manufacturers defects. Important: Place the closed packages in the room of installation 48 hours prior to installation to let the wood acclimate to room temperature.
    Inspect each plank carefully before installation for visible defects. Work out of several cartons at the same time to insure color and shade mix.

    Preparation. Remove existing baseboards, quarter rounds and thresholds and undercut doorjambs, using a piece of flooring material as a guide.

    Subfloors. All subfloors have to be clean, firm, flat, dry (< 3% moisture) and smooth (within 3/16" in 10 ft). You can lay the flooring over any solid and stable subfloor material, including plywood, chipboard, old non-creaking flooring boards, concrete slabs, PVC or stone floors.

    Lay Out. If possible, lay out the planks parallel with the incidence of light. The floor will be stronger and more stable if you lay it so that the joints are staggered at least 6" in the rows. Staggered or irregular joints lead to less waste and improve the overall impression.

    Pre-installation Inspection. Before installation of each board it is the responsibility of the installer to inspect each board for visible defects. Any board with visible defects will be replaced at no cost. If the defective board has been installed, no cost of labor will be paid for repair or replacement of defect.

    Note. Never hit the panels directly with your hammer, always use a wooden block to protect the edges of the panels.

    Tools. Hammer (1 lb.), tape measure and pencil, scribing block, carpenter square, drill, flat bar, For glue down installations use Taylor 2071 or Parabond¹s Millennium 2002 adhesive and a 3/16" V- notch trowel.

    Glue Down Installation

    Be sure to maintain 1/4" expansion along all walls and vertical fixed objects, i.e. cabinets, posts, etc. Maintain at least a 6" stagger between end joints for more appealing results. Approved subfloors and preparation procedures: Engineered plank can be glued down over the following subfloors if properly prepared.

    Concrete: On or above grade only. Must be clean, dry and smooth within 3/16"in 10ft.
    Terrazzo: Should be lightly sanded and cleaned with mineral spirits prior to spreading the adhesive. Allow the mineral spirits to dry prior to spreading the adhesive
    Ceramic Tile: Tiles must be securely fastened to the subfloor. Surface should be roughed up with a sander or grinder and cleaned to remove all dust.
    Wood Type Subfloors: Including plywood, OSB and underlayment particle board and tongue and groove boards. Must be smooth and dry.
    Squeaks and popping areas should be nailed or screwed prior to spreading adhesive.
    Vinyl: Includes sheet and vinyl tile. Vinyl must be securely fastened to the subfloor with full spread adhesive. Loose laid or perimeter glued sheet vinyl must be removed. Lightly sand vinyl and clean with mineral spirits and allow to dry prior to spreading adhesive. Make sure that you follow the instructions on the adhesive container. Use a snap line to determine a straight first starting row the width of a few boards plus 1/2" expansion space from the wall. Nailing a board on this line will help keep flooring straight during installation. Make another snap line the width of four boards to determine a comfortable working area. Door-frames and other wooden elements should be sawed off at the bottom in order to be able to push the panels under them.

    Plan so that the last row of flooring, which usually needs to be cut lengthwise, is not too narrow. In some cases, it may be useful to cut the first row as well as the last row. Layout the first course with the groove facing the wall. You may want to use a distance wedge maintain the 1/2" expansion gap. Complete the first row of panels, but do not apply any glue.

    It is important that the planks follow the line of the wall. If the wall is not quite straight, mark the line accordingly on the first row of panels and saw it into a suitable fit.
    Begin the second row on the same side as the first row, using the cut-off panel of the previous row as the first piece of the second row. The distance between the short joints should not be less than 6" compared to those in the first row.
    Using a 3/16" notch trowel spread adhesive in first working area. Don¹t spread more adhesive that can be covered within 20 minutes. Install the flooring working out of several boxes. Repeat this process with another four-board width work area until room is complete. Remove starting board and complete the area to the starting wall. Follow instructions on the reverse.

    Wherever there are heating tubes or other elements protruding from the floor, put the concerned plank(s) into the row to follow, take exact measures and mark the section to be cut out on the back of the panel. Saw the plank through the holes at an angle of about 45 degrees.
    Turn over the last panel of the first row, its tongue facing the tongue of the preceding, the short side butting up against the wall. Mark the cutting line on the back of the panel and cut it to suitable length. Fit in the piece (without glue). The last panel may have to be fixed by means of a crowbar.

    Do not forget to remove the wedges for the expansion groove.

    [inset]Important: Wood is a natural material that is subject to expansion and contraction. Hence it is important to keep a distance of approx. 1/2" to all walls, heating tubes and other elements protruding from the floor (e.g. pillars) which can be covered with a baseboard later.[/inset]

    Staple Down Installation

    Additional tools: Floor stapler for 5/16" 3/8" and 1/2" flooring.
    Subfloor preparation: Adequate and proper stapling as well as soundness should be ascertained. Do not staple into particleboard. Cleaning, sanding or leveling should remove all dirt and unevenness. The clean subfloor should be covered, wall-to-wall with 15 lb. resin paper, overlapping 4" along the edges.
    Installation: Allow 1/4" expansion space along all walls. Flooring should be laid at right angle to the floor joist and, if possible, in the directions of the longest dimension of the room. The first run of planks should be faced nailed and counter sunk. All other runs should be stapled every 8"

    Finishing touches

    Cover all expansion gaps along walls and vertical protrusions with base board, quarter round or pocket moldings. Over several years the floor may appear to dull because there are minute scratches. Padding with a 3M pad and applying a fresh coat of water borne urethane can easily refurbish the floor.

    Installation Over Radiant Heat

    Heating System: Max temperature of 80 degrees F, and system must be operating at normal temperature for a minimum of 21 days prior to floor installation.
    Subfloor: Heating pipes must be covered with 1 1/4"³ of concrete or a minimum of 1/8" below bottom of plywood subfloor. Concrete subfloor must have moisture content below 3% by weight. Heat transfer plates or insulation must be in place under pipes under plywood subfloors.
    Note: Only the preinstallation and structural warranties of engineered are valid over Radiant Heat, as we cannot control the recommendation stated above.

    Preventative Maintenance

    To ensure the full benefit of engineered hardwood flooring warranty and to extend the beauty of your new hardwood floor for years and years, we recommend the following preventative maintenance suggestions for every hardwood floor.

      [*]Use floor mats at all entrances to help keep dirt and moisture from being tracked in. Area rugs are recommended in high traffic areas and at sinks. Mats and area rugs should be slip resistant with backing that will not discolor the floor.
      [*]Install floor protectors on furniture legs. To help guard against scratches and dents, place 1" wide soft protective pads under furniture legs.
      [*]Avoid high heels or shoes that need repair. Some types of high heel shoes can severely damage the surface of any floor covering.
      [*]Sweep and vacuum floor regularly. Don't let sand and grit build up. Use protective mats or rugs at doorways and areas of heavy wear.
      [*]Maintain a healthy humidity at 40-60%. Certain regions within North America have extreme changes in humidity levels that can affect all wood floors. To maintain the humidity at the healthy range of 40-60%, it may require either a humidifier or a dehumidifier.
      [*]Never use cleaners that mix with water.
      [*]Never wet mop your hardwood floor.
      [*]Always use a well-rung cloth to wipe floor.

    Regular Maintenance

      [*]Waxing is not recommended.
      [*]Dust, sweep or vacuum regularly.
      [*]Wipe occasionally with a damp floor cloth.

    Ask your dealer for recommended maintenance and floor care products for acrylic urethane finished hardwood flooring.

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