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Monthly Archives: October 2005

  • Anderson Hardwood FAQ

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  • How do I care for my floor?
      [*]Once your floor is installed you want to protect your investment by properly maintaining the floor. Information on how to protect, clean, and maintain the floor can be found in the warranty brochure, the installation guidelines, and on our website.
  • How do I register my floor?
      [*]There are several ways to register your floor after purchase. The warranty and maintenance brochure contains a warranty registration card – simply fill the information out and drop it in the mail. The second option is to simply register your floor on-line at [url]www.andersonfloors.com[/url] or [url]www.appalachianfloors.com[/url]. Remember to keep a copy of your receipt to show proof of purchase in the event there is a problem with your floor.
  • Can I repair my damaged floor?
      [*]Typically yes. For minor scratches or dents the use of a touch up kit can repair damaged boards. In the event that a touch-up kit can not do a satisfactory repair replacing individual boards can be performed.
  • Can I install a hardwood floor in a full bathroom?
      [*]Installing a wood floor in a full bathroom is not recommended due the high moisture associated with these areas which can increase the potential for problems to develop.
  • Can I install an engineered floor over a concrete subfloor?
      [*]The benefit of an engineered floor is that in most cases it can be installed directly over a concrete substrate that is clean, flat, dry and structurally sound. See the installation guidelines for more detailed installation guidelines.
  • What is the recommended trowel to use with the A.F.B. Duck-Glue?
      [*]The recommended trowel is determined by the width of the product. For products 4 ½” in width or less use a 3/16”x3/16”x3/16” square notch trowel. For products wider than 4 ½” use a ¼” x ¼”x ¼” square notch trowel.
  • Is the warranty on my floor transferable?
      [*]No - The warranty applies only to the original purchaser of the floor. As the purchaser you must register the floor and keep a receipt (proof of purchase) in the event there is a problem with the floor.
  • How do I care for my recently purchased floor?
      [*]By observing a few precautions and setting up a regular cleaning routine and maintenance program, you can expect years of beauty from your floor. Please refer to the Installation and Care section on the website.
  • How will dogs affect my floor?
      [*]Taking precautions can help to prevent or minimize damage from a pet’s nails. Keep their nails clipped.
  • Shaw Laminate: How to Clean Laminate Flooring

    Although Shaw Laminate Flooring stands up to the toughest household conditions, you can keep it looking its best.

    CLEAN your laminate flooring with these routine maintenance guidelines

      [*]Use a damp cloth to blot up spills as soon as they happen. Never allow liquids to stand on your floor.
      [*]For tough spots, such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, or tar, use acetone/nail polish remover on a clean white cloth, then wipe the area with a damp cloth to remove any remaining residue.
      [*]Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly with the hard floor attachment (not the beater bar) to prevent accumulation of dirt and grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish.
      [*]Periodically clean the floor with cleaning products made specifically for laminate floor care. For optimum results, we recommend Shaw's Ever Clean.
      [*]Do not wash or wet mop the floor with soap, water, oil-soap detergent, or any other liquid cleaning material. This could cause swelling, warping, delamination, and joint-line separation, and void the warranty.
      [*]Do not use steel wool, abrasive cleaners, or strong ammoniated or chlorinated type cleaners.
      [*]Do not use any type of buffing or polishing machine.
      [*]For spots such as candle wax or chewing gum, harden the spot with ice and then gently scrape with a plastic scraper, such as a credit card. Be careful not to scratch the flooring surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
      [*]A more frequent dust-mopping or vacuuming schedule may be required in very sandy areas such as a beach home.

    PROTECT your laminate flooring to keep it looking like new

      [*]Entry mats will help collect the dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that might otherwise be tracked onto your floor.
      [*]To prevent slippage of area rugs, use an approved vinyl rug underlayment.
      [*]Use floor protectors and wide-load bearing leg bases/ rollers to minimize the chance of indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector.

    • Maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 35% and 65% throughout the year to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of the wood.
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    • Heating season (Dry): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excess shrinkage due to low humidity levels. Wood stove and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
    • Non-Heating Season (Wet): An air conditioner, dehumidifier, or periodically turning on your heating will help to maintain humidity levels during summer months.
  • [*]Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather.
    [*]Keep your pet’s nails trimmed to prevent them from scratching your floor.
    [*]Never try to slide heavy objects across the floor.
    [*]A protective mat should be used for furniture or chairs with castors.

    REPAIR your laminate flooring when damage occurs

    In the event that accidental damage occurs to one of the planks, minor scratches or dents can be repaired using a Flooring Touchup or Color-fill Kit. This special touchup kit is a filler material, color coordinated to the color of your floor that when used properly, the repaired area is often invisible. The repaired area will hold up to foot traffic and wear just like the rest of your laminate flooring.

    For glueless laminate board replacement repairs, follow the steps below.

      [*]Shaw glueless laminate may be assembled and disassembled several times.
      [*]Carefully disassembled glueless joints will retain their original locking integrity during re-assembly. New replacement plank(s) should be acclimated in the replacement area for at least 72 hours, to allow them to equalize to the conditions of the flooring in the room where the replacement(s) will take place.
      [*]Remove baseboard, wall base, or quarter-round as needed to replace the damaged board(s). Take the flooring apart, 1 row at a time, by lifting the rows to detach them; then separating the individual boards.
      [*]Be sure to stack the individual planks in the proper order for re-installation. This usually eliminates the need to cut planks for start or end of the row lengths.
      [*]Replace the damaged board with a piece from the edge of the original installation.
      [*]Insert the properly acclimated new plank(s) along the outer edge of the original flooring installation during re-assembly. This minimizes the chance that a newer plank might stand out from the wear condition of the original installation.
      [*]Re-install the baseboard, wall base, or quarter round, and the replacement-repair is complete.
  • Shaw Carpet: Carpet Stain Removal and Other Cleaning Guidelines

    Protect your carpet--step by-step

    With the exceptional quality of Shaw's carpet, your carpet could "ugly" out long before it "wears" out. Make sure it doesn't with a comprehensive care program made up of four parts:

      [*][url=#preventative]Preventive Maintenance - protect your investment before problems occur.[/url]
      [*][url=#vacuuming]Vacuuming - the most important step in caring for your carpet.[/url]
      [*][url=#spotspill]Spot and Spill Removal - because, let's face it, they just can't always be avoided.[/url]
      [*][url=#overall]Overall Cleaning - because vacuuming doesn't get everything.[/url]

    No carpet is absolutely stain proof

    Some carpets have stain resistant treatments that improve your ability to clean stains, but not prevent stains. Similarly, carpets with soil resistant treatments reduce the rate of soiling, but all carpets require regular care and maintenance. Click here to learn about Shaw's own breakthrough in carpet soil and stain resistance technology, R2X.

    Staining versus soiling

    There is often confusion about the difference between soiling and staining carpet. The majority of stain complaints are actually soil related. For example, many sugar-based spills, such as soft drinks and coffee, leave a sugar residue after removal. This sticky residue readily attracts soil from ordinary shoe traffic, and the resulting discolored area appears to be a stain.

    The same thing happens when spills are cleaned with a detergent solution and the area is not sufficiently rinsed with plain water, leaving a sticky detergent residue. It is important to rinse thoroughly with water and blot dry after removing any spill.

    New flooring represents a substantial investment. The proper steps will make sure it stays attractive for years to come.
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    Preventative Maintenance

    Place walk-off mats at all entrances

    Walk-off mats should be used at the exterior of all entrances to absorb the soil and moisture. They can help trap the excessive dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that would otherwise be tracked into the home. Mats should also be cleaned on a regular basis so they don't become sources of soil themselves.

    Use a quality pad

    You should always use a quality pad under your carpet, particularly on stairs. A good carpet pad not only gives better resilience and comfort underfoot, it can extend the life of your carpet. Because some carpets carry warranties with specific density and thickness requirements, be sure and review your warranty before purchasing your pad. Click here to learn about Shaw's Soft Foundations line of carpet cushion.

    Occasionally move heavy furniture

    Move heavy furniture occasionally to avoid excessive pile crushing. You should also use floor protectors designed for carpet under the legs of tables, chairs, and other furniture to help distribute the weight. Do not use chairs or appliances with rollers or casters without a chair pad designed specifically for carpet or damage can occur.

    Protect carpet when moving furniture

    When moving heavy wheeled furniture (pianos, buffets, etc.), prevent damage by placing a protective barrier of heavy cardboard or plywood between the wheels and the carpet.

    Clean your area rugs

    If you use area rugs on your carpet, be sure to clean them regularly. Clean and restore the pile of the carpet underneath as well. Also, be sure to check area rugs for colorfastness before placing them on carpet because the color in some rugs may bleed through. After cleaning your carpet, allow it to dry completely before replacing rugs.

    Reduce periods of direct sunlight

    Protect your carpet from prolonged periods of direct sunlight with blinds, shades, or awnings.
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    Vacuuming

    The most important step in caring for your carpet is vacuuming.

    Vacuum carpet thoroughly and frequently, particularly in high-traffic areas. Realize that walking on soiled carpet allows the soil particles to work their way below the surface of the pile where they are far more difficult to remove and can damage the carpet fibers. Frequent vacuuming removes these particles from the surface before problems occur.

    For rooms with light traffic, vacuum the carpet traffic lanes twice weekly and the entire area once weekly. In areas with heavy traffic, vacuum the carpet traffic lanes daily and the entire area twice weekly. Up to three passes of the machine will suffice for light soiling, but five to seven passes are necessary for heavily soiled areas. Change the vacuuming direction occasionally to help stand the pile upright and reduce matting.

    Check the quality of your vacuum

    A good vacuum cleaner is vital to prolonging the beauty and life of your carpet. An inexpensive machine can remove surface dirt but will not effectively remove the hidden dirt and particles embedded in the pile.

    To ensure that your vacuum will conform to the highest industry standards, make sure that your vacuum cleaner is certified through the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) Vacuum Cleaner Indoor Air Quality Program. Visit www.carpet-rug.com for details and listings.

    Select the best vacuum for your type of carpet

    Shaw recommends using vacuums with a rotating brush or combination beater/brush bar that agitates the carpet pile and mechanically loosens soil for removal. Carpet with thick loop pile construction, particularly wool and wool-blend styles, may be sensitive to brushing or rubbing of the pile surface and may become fuzzy. For these products, Shaw recommends a suction-only vacuum or a vacuum with an adjustable brush lifted away from the carpet so it does not agitate the pile. A vacuum with a beater/brush bar can be tested for excessive fuzzing in an inconspicuous location before regular use.

    Pay attention to vacuum bags

    Replaceable paper vacuum bags do a better job of trapping small particles than cloth bags. With cloth bags, the particles pass back into the room. High efficiency vacuum bags, also called micro filtration bags, trap even smaller microscopic particles such as mold and mildew spores and dust mite byproducts, which are often found to be a source of allergies. All vacuum bags should be checked often and replaced when half full.

    Check the belt and the setting

    Make sure the belt is in good condition and that the brush or beater bar rotates when in contact with the carpet. To adjust the vacuum to the correct height setting for the carpet, raise the beater/brush bar to the highest setting and then lower it until it contacts the pile enough to slightly vibrate the carpet several inches away from the machine, but not low enough to cause significant slowing of the motor.

    Change vacuuming directions

    Change the vacuuming direction occasionally to help stand the pile upright and help reduce matting.
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    Spot and Spill Removal

    Protect your carpet--step by-step

    No carpet is stain proof, but since many are stain resistant, you have time to act. Look below to see if the specific spill you're trying to remove is listed. If so, you'll see instructions to help. If not, use the following general quidelines.
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  • Remove as much of food spills as possible by scraping the carpet gently with a spoon or a dull knife.
  • Absorb wet spills as quickly as possible by blotting repeatedly with white paper or white cloth towels. Always blot; never rub or scrub abrasively, as a fuzzy area may result. When blotting, work from the outer edge in toward the center of the spot to avoid spreading the spill.
  • Remove the stain using one of the cleaning items from the checklist below.
  • Rinse the cleaned carpet area with water to remove detergent residue that may become sticky and cause rapid re-soiling.
  • Absorb any remaining moisture by placing several layers of white towels over the spot and weighing them down with a heavy object. This step is necessary even when the carpet doesn't seem particularly damp.
  • What do you use to clean the spill? Be prepared with the following checklist.

    You should use the following items for handling spills on your carpet. It's important to use only the items listed, because many other household cleaners contain chemicals that may permanently damage your carpet.

    Solution-dyed fibers can withstand bleach, but do you know if your carpet is solution-dyed?

    Difficult stains on carpets made from polypropylene or other solution-dyed fibers may be removed with a mild bleach solution (one part chlorine bleach to five parts water). But be careful. If you aren't absolutely certain your carpet is solution dyed, call Shaw's Information Center at 1-800-441-Shaw.
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    Overall Cleaning

    Vacuuming alone won't protect your carpet

    Even though vacuuming can remove most soil, it is also necessary to clean your carpet on a regular basis to remove the oily, sticky soil that vacuums don't remove. These soils result from cooking vapors, air pollution, and tracked-in dirt from outside. The particles of oily soil deposited on carpet fibers can cause gradual but significant dulling of colors. The color isn't lost, but is hidden under the film. If this type of soil is allowed to accumulate, it begins to attract and hold the dry soil.

    If carpet is cleaned before it becomes too unsightly, the cleaning chore will be easier and more successful. Carpet in a typical household should be cleaned every 12 to 18 months, depending on the number of residents and amount of activity.

    Choosing the proper cleaning system is important. Some systems may leave residues which accelerates re-soiling and defeats the whole purpose of cleaning. The recommendations below represent the best current knowledge and should help prolong the time between cleanings.

    What about spot and stain removal?

    Shaw's R2X Stain and Soil Remover is the only carpet cleaning product with the endorsement consumers have trusted for more than 100 years: the Good Housekeeping Seal. Because of our patented process, it's even easier to use than most spot cleaners. Learn more about R2X or order your bottle today.

    What cleaning system should you use?

    Shaw recommends the hot water extraction system. Research indicates that the hot water extraction system provides the best capability for cleaning. This system is commonly referred to as "steam cleaning," although no steam is actually generated. The process consists of spraying a solution of water and detergent into the carpet pile and recovering the water and soil with a powerful vacuum into a holding tank. This can be done from a truck-mounted unit outside the home with only the hose and wand brought inside or by a portable system brought into the home.

    Professional or do-it-yourself?

    It is to your advantage to use professional carpet cleaners because their experience enables them to do a better job than you can do yourself. Their equipment has more extraction power than the rental units available to individuals, and the carpet should dry more quickly. True professionals also understand the equipment, know the proper cleaning agents for the situation at hand, and recognize the differences in fibers and carpet construction.

    How do you locate a professional carpet cleaner?

    One way to locate a professional carpet cleaner is to contact the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (11CRC) at 1-800-835-4624. This organization maintains a national directory of independent professional cleaners who are trained and certified in a variety of cleaning specialties. Call and explain that you have purchased a Shaw carpet, and be sure to ask for a cleaner near you who uses the "hot water extraction system."

    If you prefer tackling the job yourself, check these do-it-yourself guidelines before you begin.

    Do-It-Yourself

    If you decide to rent a steam cleaning machine and clean your carpet yourself, you'll need to choose your equipment carefully. Most rental units available do not adequately clean and may actually damage the carpet. Check several cleaning systems before making a selection and consider the following:

    Make sure the carpet will dry quickly

    The cleaning equipment you select should have enough vacuum power to allow the carpet to dry within 6 to 12 hours after cleaning. Units that do not have the power to extract the cleaning solution from the carpet adequately may actually damage the carpet due to over wetting.

    Do not over wet the carpet

    Most problems in do-it-yourself cleaning are due to one of two problems, and this in one of them. Prolonged dampness may promote growth of mildew and bacteria in the carpet or cause separation of the backing. A carpet that is wet for more than 24 hours could experience these problems.

    Do not use excessive detergent

    This is the other problem most commonly experienced by do-it-yourselfers. You should use a cleaning solution with a pH less than 10, preferably near 9, and with a minimum of non sticky residue. The attraction between the detergent and the soil and oil particles is critical during the cleaning process. However, if it isn't rinsed completely, the detergent residue continues to attract the particles after cleaning. Increasing the amount of cleaning solution beyond the recommended level does not increase cleaning performance, but makes the removal of detergent more difficult. Because buildup of detergent residue is the most common cause of accelerated re-soiling complaints, Shaw also recommends a clear water rinse after cleaning.

    Know your warranty guidelines

    Carpet with stain resistant treatments must be cleaned with products formulated for this purpose, or the stain resistance will be impaired and the warranty voided. Do not use cleaning or spotting solutions that contain bleaches or optical brighteners because they can discolor the carpet.

    Do not use silicone-based anti-soil treatments

    The only anti-soil products approved for use on Shaw carpets after the cleaning process are either DuPont Teflon® or 3M Scotchgard™.

    Use fans to speed drying time

    Reduce drying time by using several fans to move air across the carpet in combination with a dehumidifier or air conditioner to pull moisture out of the air. Carpet should be dry within 12 hours; even fewer hours is better.

    Shaw Industries does not recommend Bonnet cleaning systems.

    These systems employ a rotating bonnet of terry cloth or other absorbent material to agitate the carpet pile and absorb soil. A detergent solution is sprayed onto the pile and then worked with the bonnet attached to a rotary floor polisher. The Bonnet system has very limited capability for soil removal and leaves much of the detergent in the pile since it employs no real extraction. As a result, rapid re-soiling often occurs. Another disadvantage is that the spinning bonnet may distort the fibers of cut pile carpet, fuzz the pile, and leave distinct swirl marks.

    This entry was posted in Uncategorized on October 6, 2005 by woflex.

  • Shaw Hardwood: How to Clean Hardwood Floors

    Protect the natural beauty of your Shaw Hardwoods flooring

    Your Shaw Hardwoods™ Floor will add warmth and beauty to your home for many years to come. In fact, Shaw Hardwoods, with its DuraShield XL advanced finish provides superior wear; easy, no-wax care; plus superior resistance to staining from all common household products such as coffee, shoe polish, lipstick, acetone, mustard, and more. A few simple maintenance steps, however, will help protect your investment and keep your Shaw Hardwood flooring looking like new.

    For cleaning, make sure you...

      [*]Use a damp cloth to blot spills and spots as soon as they happen. For tough spots, such as oil, paint, markers, lipstick, ink, tar, or cigarette marks, use acetone/nail polish remover on a clean white cloth, then wipe with a damp cloth. Always avoid allowing liquids to stand on your floor.
      [*]Sweep, dust, or vacuum the floor regularly with the hard floor attachment (not the beater bar) to prevent accumulation of dirt or grit that can scratch or dull the floor finish.
      [*]Occasionally wipe the floor with a damp mop or cloth.
      [*]Periodically clean the floor with EverClean from Shaw's line of floor covering care products.

    For cleaning, make sure you DON'T...

      [*]do not use oil based, wax, polish, or strong ammoniated or abrasive cleaners.
      [*]do not use steel wool or scouring powder.
      [*]do not wash or wet-mop the floor with soap, water, oil-soap detergent, or any other liquid cleaning material. This could cause swelling, warping, delamination, and joint-line separation, and void the warranty.
      [*]do not use any type of buffing machine.

    Other routine care instructions:

      [*]For spots such as candle wax or chewing gum, harden the spot with ice and then gently scrape with a plastic scraper, such as a credit card. Be careful not to scratch the flooring surface. Wipe clean with a damp cloth.
      [*]For tough stains, use Shaw's Heavy Duty Remover.
      [*]Do not use any type of buffing machine.

    For protecting your Shaw Hardwood flooring, make sure you...

    Use protective mats

    Good quality entry and exit mats will help collect the dirt, sand, grit, and other substances such as oil, asphalt, or driveway sealer that can otherwise be tracked onto your flooring. Do not use rubber- or foam-backed plastic mats as they may discolor the flooring. To prevent slippage, use an approved vinyl rug underlayment.

    Use floor protectors on furniture

    Use floor protectors and wide-load bearing leg bases/rollers to minimize indentations and scratches from heavy objects. As a rule, the heavier the object, the wider the floor protector should be.

    Maintain Relative humidity level

    Maintain a normal indoor relative humidity level between 45 and 65% throughout the year to minimize the natural expansion and contraction of wood.

      [*]Heating Season (Dry): A humidifier is recommended to prevent excess shrinkage due to low humidity levels. Wood stove and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
      [*]Non Heating Season (Wet): An air conditioner, dehumidifier or periodically turning on your heating system can maintain humidity during the summer months. Avoid excessive exposure to water during periods of inclement weather.

    Avoid sharp objects

    While your Shaw Hardwoods floor is one of the most wear resistant floors on the market, sharp or pointed objects can nevertheless damage it.

    Watch your feet

    Don't walk on your flooring with stiletto-style heels, spiked golf shoes or cleats. They may cause indentations in your flooring.

    Watch your pet's feet

    Keep your pet's nails trimmed to keep them from scratching your flooring.

    Rearrange your rugs and furniture

    Periodically rearranging your area rugs and furniture will allow the flooring to age evenly. UV sunlight will soften the tone of different species of hardwood to varying degrees.

    Protect the floor when moving

    Use a dolly when moving heavy furniture or appliances. But first, put down a sheet of quarter-inch plywood or Masonite to protect the floor. Never try to slide or roll heavy objects across the floor.

  • Shaw Laminate Warranty Overview

    Shaw Laminate flooring warranties help make sure you enjoy your floors for years to come.

    Shaw Laminate flooring offers residential products with 12-year, 15-year, 20-year, and 25-year warranties for Shaw Laminate products used in dry, interior residential applications.
    [img align=right]/images/article/679_NatSpl_Sanibel_170.jpg[/img]

    What does the Shaw Laminate Flooring Limited Warranty cover?

    Shaw Industries, Inc., warrants that for the time period of the particular product category, which begins from the date of original purchase, your Shaw Laminate Floor:

      [*]will not stain
      [*]will not wear through the decorative surface
      [*]will not fade as a result of direct sunlight or artificial light
      [*]will be free of manufacturing defects

    What you should do if you need warranty service?

    You should notify the authorized Shaw Laminate Flooring dealer from which the original purchase was made, of any defect no later than 30 days after discovering the defect but within the time period of the applicable limited warranty.

    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/article/679_Showpiece_NatOak_223.jpg[/img]

    You must present to that authorized Shaw Laminate Flooring dealer the following items for a warranty claim to take place:

      [*]a valid proof of purchase in the form of a sales receipt or other documents.
      [*]a detailed description of the problem and or a photograph/sample that clearly shows the problem.

    What Shaw Industries will do if you need warranty service:

    In most cases, your dealer will be able to correct the problem, but, if he/she is not able to do so, you should contact Shaw directly at 1-800-441-7429. If Shaw honors a claim under this limited warranty, it will repair or replace, at its option, the affected flooring material. If professionally installed, Shaw will pay the reasonable labor costs to perform the replacement or repair during the first two years from the date of the original purchase. In the event that the color installed is no longer available, Shaw will authorize your dealer to replace the affected floor with another Shaw product of equal value. The above described remedy is the customer's sole and exclusive remedy for claims under this limited warranty.

  • Shaw Laminate Coordinating Trim, Moldings, Transition Pieces and Underlayment

    Add the finishing touch to your Shaw Laminate flooring.

    Coordinating moldings are available for all styles and colors of Shaw Laminate flooring you choose. Below are details on available moldings. All moldings are available in 7' 10" lengths.
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    Step Down Stairnose

    [img align=right]/images/article/678_LamStairnose.jpg[/img]
    This coordinating piece provides the proper transition for all the steps in your home with Shaw Laminate flooring.
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    Reducer Strip

    [img align=right]/images/article/678_LamReducer.jpg[/img]
    Ensure the proper transition when your laminate flooring meets other floor coverings, such as vinyl, thin ceramic tile, or low-pile carpeting.
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    End Molding/Carpet Reducer

    [img align=right]/images/article/678_LamCarpetReducer.jpg[/img]
    This piece can be used as a transition from laminate floors to different flooring surfaces when the reducer won't do, such as on high-pile carpet or thick ceramic tile.
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    T-Molding

    [img align=right]/images/article/678_LamTMolding.jpg[/img]
    T-Molding is commonly used in doorways to join two laminate floors in adjoining rooms. It's also recommended when making transitions from a laminate floor to another floor that is approximately the same height.
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    Quarter Round

    [img align=right]/images/article/678_LamQuartRound.jpg[/img]
    Trim your walls or baseboards with this simple-to-install finishing touch.
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    Wall Base

    [img align=right]/images/article/678_LamWallBase.jpg[/img]
    Give your room a dramatic finishing touch with borders at the base of your wall. It may also be used under cabinets as a cover for toe kicks.
    [inset]Please NOTE: wallbase is only available in selected styles and colors. Please ask your Shaw Representative for specific style availability.[/inset]
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    Molding Track

    [img align=right]/images/article/678_LamMoldingTrack.jpg[/img]
    Hold your moldings in perfect place.
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    Selecting and Installing Laminate Flooring Underlayments

    [img align=right]/images/article/678_LamUnderlayments.jpg[/img]Just as carpet needs cushion, Shaw Laminates need a quality underlayment between them and the subfloor.

    Shaw offers a complete series of quality underlayment options.

    Shaw Silent-Step

      [*]3-in-1 underlayment
      [*]"Just Right" thickness for comfort and stability
      [*]provides superior sound absorption and the most realistic hardwood walk-sound available.
      [*]for use over concrete or wood substrates on all grade levels.
      [*]provides support for installation system.
      [*]moisture barrier to protect your flooring.
      [*]non-allergenic
      [*]anti-microbial mold and mildew inhibitor
      [*]faster and easier installation

    Shaw 2-in-1 Foam

      [*]For use over concrete or wood substrates on all grade levels
      [*]provides support for installation system
      [*]moisture barrier to protect your flooring
      [*]non-allergenic

    Shaw Foam

      [*]for use on or above ground level over a wood subfloor
      [*]provides support for installation system.
      [*]non-allergenic

    VersaLock with Silent Step Plus

    For the ultimate underlayment, select VersaLock with Silent Step Plus. It's a premium ATTACHED underlayment on Shaw's Natural Sensations Plus products.

    Key advantages include:

      [*]speeds installation since high density underlayment is already attached to each flooring plank.
      [*]reduces walking noise
      [*]improves dimensional stability
      [*]reduces noise in lower level rooms
      [*]provides superior support and comfort
  • Shaw VersaLock Glueless Laminate Installation Guidelines

    [img align=right]/images/SHAW-LMN/versalocklogo.gif[/img]

    Installing Laminate Flooring: is a Snap with Versalock

    Go Glueless with VersaLock. [It just seams better.]

    [img align=left]/images/SHAW-LMN/versalock.jpg[/img]Experience a new dimension in laminate flooring with Shaw's unique VersaLock flooring system. This revolutionary product advancement allows your floor to be installed quickly and without glue so there's no messy clean up and you can walk on it right away!

    This is made possible by a patented locking technology that reliably secures the flooring panels on all four sides without adhesive. As an added bonus, a VersaLock floor is warranted against moisture damage and can be easily taken apart and reassembled.

    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/SHAW-LMN/versalock.jpg[/img]Shaw's VersaLock Laminate flooring collection includes an impressive array of traditional, rustic, and exotic wood grain designs that will enhance any room in your home.

    The collection also includes unique tile patterns with the classic look and feel of natural stone.

    And with VersaLock, installation is a snap!

    VersaLock flooring is a snap to install. Literally.

    [img align=right]/images/article/677_Nat Sens_220_ButtrscOak.jpg[/img][img]/images/article/677_versalocklogo.gif[/img]
    Experience a new dimension in flooring with Shaw's unique VersaLock™ flooring system.

    Available in both laminate and hardwood flooring, this revolutionary product advancement allows your flooring to be installed quickly and without glue. There's no messy clean up, and you can walk on it right away.

    This is made possible by a patented locking technology that reliably secures the flooring panels on all four sides without adhesive. As an added bonus, a VersaLock floor is warranted against moisture damage and can be easily taken apart and reassembled. All in all, it's the perfect flooring choice for today's active families who want quality, beauty, and superior performance.

    Install it today. Walk on it tonight.

    Shaw's VersaLock Laminate flooring collection includes an impressive array of traditional, rustic, and exotic woodgrain designs that will enhance any room in your home.

    The collection also included unique tile patterns with the classic look and feel of natural stone. Because these patterns are produced in a 12" x 48" plank format--matching the shape and size of the ceramic tiles--seams are virtually invisible.

    Go Glueless. It Just Seams Better.

    Basic Installation Guidelines*

    [img align=left]/images/article/677_VersalockInstall1.jpg[/img]1. Roll out underlayment.
    [clear][img align=left]/images/article/677_VersalockInstall2.jpg[/img]2. Insert tongue into groove.
    [clear][img align=left]/images/article/677_VersalockInstall3.jpg[/img]3. Rotate plank downward.

    *Detailed installation instructions are enclosed with your laminate flooring.

    To download a complete manual on installing laminate flooring, select one of the options below:

    [url=http://www.shawfloors.com/img/assets/3601/VersaLockLaminateWoodLookInstallInstructions.pdf]VersaLock Laminate Flooring Installation -- Wood Look[/url]
    [url=http://www.shawfloors.com/img/assets/3601/VersaLockLaminateStoneLookInstallInstructions.pdf]VersaLock Laminate Flooring Installation -- Stone Look[/url]

    These manuals offer general guidelines. Check with your dealer to learn if the product you've selected has specific guidelines you should follow.

  • Shaw Versalock Glueless Hardwood Installation Guidelines

  • Shaw Hardwood Special Installation Tips

    Moldings, Trims & Transition Pieces - Installation Tips:

      [*]Moldings must be predrilled avoid splitting whenever they are to be secured with nails or fasteners.
      [*]The tool of choice for cutting hardwood moldings is a 10 or 12" motorized miter saw with pre-set adjustments for the basic miter cuts at 22.5°, 45°, and 90°. A carbide tipped blade makes the best cuts.
      [*]When installing Wall Base molding, eliminate the need to putty holes on the molding by placing the bottom nail below the finished line of the Quarter Round.
      [*]On Wall Base or Quarter Round moldings, never restrict the hardwood floor's natural contraction/expansion movement by driving the fasteners at a downward angle. Rather, attach the moldings to the wall or vertical surface.
      [img]/images/article/675_QuarterRound.jpg[/img]
      [*]Always miter cuts rather than having butt cuts when splicing. Decide the direction of the miter by cutting the molding with the long point oriented in the same direction as your natural line of vision when you enter the room.
    [img align=right]/images/article/675_WallBase.jpg[/img]Wall Base - Borders the wood floor at the base of the wall to give the room a finished look. This molding conceals the required expansion space between the wall and the hardwood flooring. It may also be used under cabinets and as a cover for toe kicks.
    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/article/675_QuarterRound.jpg[/img]Quarter Round - This molding conceals the required expansion space between the wall and the hardwood flooring. It may also be used under cabinets where a wall base won't fit or at the base of a stairway to provide a subtle blend between the floor and the wall or vertical surface.
    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/article/675_Threshold.jpg[/img]Threshold - Typically used at exterior doorways as a transition between flooring and the doorway threshold. It is also used to transition from a wood floor to different flooring surfaces to make them fit together more evenly (i.e. high pile carpeting or tile.) Another typical use for a threshold is to conceal the expansion space between the flooring and a vertical surface such as fireplace hearth or a sliding glass doorway.
    Installation - Lay the Threshold Molding in place to determine a proper fit. The Threshold molding should overlap the flooring by 1/2" to 3/4" leaving the balance for expansion. To attach the molding, apply one or two 1/4" beads of construction adhesive to the subfloor and set the molding in place.
    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/article/675_TMolding.jpg[/img]T-Molding - Commonly used in doorways to join two wood floors in adjoining rooms. Also recommended when making transitions from a wood floor to another floor that is approximately the same height such as ceramic tile, hardwood or laminate floors.
    Installation - A space of 1 1/4" between the two adjoining floors is necessary to properly install the T-molding. This is to allow for the expansion space. Lay the T-Molding in place to determine proper fit. To attach the T-Molding between a ceramic tile floor and the hardwood floor, apply 1/4" bead of construction adhesive to the top edge of the ceramic tile. To attach between two hardwood floors apply the 1/4" bead to the top edge of one side of the hardwood only. Seat the molding in place allowing for a minimum of a 1/4" overlap on the wood flooring. Make sure to allow for the expansion space between the T molding and the tile.
    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/article/675_OverlapReducer.jpg[/img]Overlap Reducer - Used to join hardwood floors that utilize the floating installation method with floors of different heights such as vinyl, ceramic tile, or low pile carpeting.
    [inset]Important: When installing the Overlap Reducer on a floating floor, it is important not to attach it directly to the hardwood floor as the floor must be able to expand and contract under the lip of the molding.[/inset]
    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/article/675_FlushReducer.jpg[/img]Flush Reducer - Used to join hardwood floors that have been glued down or nailed down with floors of different heights such as vinyl, ceramic tile, or low pile carpeting.
    Installation - To attach the molding, apply glue to the front edge of the molding. Apply one or two 1/4" beads of construction adhesive to the subfloor and seat the molding in place. To assure a fiush surface in any glue down in installation, the molding should be taped to the floor while the glue is setting up.
    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/article/675_OverlapStairNose.jpg[/img]Overlap Stair Nose - Provides the proper transition for stairways or steps which have hardwood floors that have been installed using the floating installation method. The Stair Nose also provides the proper overhang for a transition from one floor level to the next such as a step into a sunken living room.
    [inset]Important: When installing the Overlap Stair Nose on a floating floor, it is important not to attach it directly to the hardwood floor as the floor must be able to expand and contract under the lip of the molding.[/inset]
    [clear=right][img align=right]/images/article/675_FlushStairNose.jpg[/img]Flush Stair Nose - Provides the proper transition for stairways or steps which have hardwood floors that have been installed by either the nail down or glue down installation method. The Stair Nose also provides the proper overhang for a transition from one floor level to the next such as the step into a sunken living room.
    Installation - When used as a stair step, the Stair Nose molding should cover and overlap the riser. When used on a step-up to another room, the Stair Nose molding becomes the starting "edge" of the floor.
    [inset]Important: Because of the interlocking of the molding with the floor, the Stair Nose molding should be installed first. Once the molding is in place, the interlocking floor can be installed.[/inset]
    To install apply one or two 1/4" beads of construction adhesive to the subfloor and set the molding into place. To assure a fiush surface tape the molding to the floor while the glue is setting up. Also secure in place by fastening with 8d finish nail or appropriate finish screw.

    Special Instructions For Exotic Species

    Rare Exotic Solid Hardwoods sold by Shaw Ind. Group, Inc., showcase a dynamic range of rare grain and color variations that are sure to capture the attention of the most demanding customers.
    These unique hardwoods are also unsurpassed in hardness, measuring in the range of 3000 units on the Janka rating scale, compared to traditional hardwoods such as oak, which have a Janka hardness rating of about 1300 units.
    Because of the extreme hardness of these newer exotic hardwood species, special equipment settings and techniques must be utilized to insure a successful installation.

      [*]Fully acclimate the hardwood for 72 hrs. - following solid wood guidelines.
      [*]Use a pneumatic hardwood nailer - 2"cleated nails, or use a pneumatic hardwood stapler – ½" crown, 1-1/2" long staples.
      [*]The models listed in the Shaw solid Hardwood Installation Instructions will work, except the manual types.
      [*]To insure that air pressure remains constant at all times, use a minimum 2 horsepower/ 4 gallon tank air compressor to power the nailer or stapler. The compressor should be regulated at 85 lbs. PSI.
      [*]DO NOT USE A MANUAL NAILER OR STAPLER. The excessive blunt force needed to properly set the nails into the extremely dense exotic hardwoods, can sometimes cause damage to the top face and side of the planks.

    Special Circumstances

    [img align=right]/images/article/675_doorways.gif[/img]Doorways: Attempting to continue installing rows through a doorway into another room can cause problems because the narrow opening is a very small base upon which to continue consistent even rows into the next room. Instead install the floor in each room normally until you get to the door. Then cut to fit the board, connecting the floors of the rooms with a T-Molding.
    [clear=right]
    [img align=right]/images/article/675_stairs.gif[/img]Installation on Stairs: Flooring on stairs must be fully adhered to the stairs using ShawBond 200™ Hardwood Flooring Adhesive. Moldings should be installed using either screw type fasteners or nails along with the appropriate adhesive. The tongue and groove must be adhered as normal using Shaw Hardwood Tongue and Groove Adhesive.
    [clear=right]
    [img align=right]/images/article/675_pipes.gif[/img]Pipes, vents and other fixed objects: Each can be unique, but the general rule is to measure very carefully before you cut and remember to leave a 1/2" expansion gap between the object and the flooring. You will cover expansion gaps with molding, vent covers or pipe rings when the floor is complete.

  • Shaw Solid Hardwood Installation Guidelines

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